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Emerson LC401EM3F - No power   Goto page 1, 2  Next  
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Sawilson



Joined: 30 May 2014
Posts: 9
Location: Knoxville

PostPosted: Fri May 30, 2014 11:24 am    Post subject: Emerson LC401EM3F - No power Reply with quote

Hoping you can help me. I've got a Emerson LC401EM3F. Turned it off and went to work, came home turned it on and the red light went off and now the TV does absolutely nothing. No red light or lights of any kind, nothing, not a thing. I unplugged and let sit, plugged it back in and still nothing. Had extended warranty but the warranty company says (without looking at it) it would cost more than its worth to fix so they're just sending me a check for $216.00 for what we paid on black Friday 2012. Pulled the back off the TV and had no bulging caps. The power supply board for my Emerson LC401EM3F is Board number BA01P0F0103 5. Here's a link to a pic of it http://i488.photobucket.com/albums/rr250/sawilson005/IMAG1632_zpse39e5f18.jpg I have no experience in repairing Tv's but am very D.I.Y oriented. Just wondering what you think would be the main problem or if you think there's going to be multiple problems and I should just buy a new board and throw it in? Any help you could give would be appreciated. Thanks...
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JTS1957



Joined: 21 Jan 2009
Posts: 2343
Location: Far, Far Away

PostPosted: Fri May 30, 2014 11:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Check fuse(s) and semiconductors, especially diodes.
Sawilson



Joined: 30 May 2014
Posts: 9
Location: Knoxville

PostPosted: Fri May 30, 2014 11:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

JTS1957 wrote:
Check fuse(s) and semiconductors, especially diodes.


So a blown fuse alone could cause no power at all getting to the tv? I thought a blown fuse would just keep it in stand by mode but I'd at least have a red light on. I mean I have no lights on of any kind, the TV just looks like its unplugged. If I unplug it and then plug it back in it clicks but still have no lights or anything at all. Just wondering if it sounds like the power supply board or the main board. Never worked on tv's before but I do have the ability to fix it if I can just figure out what to fix, lol. This is my power board:
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JTS1957



Joined: 21 Jan 2009
Posts: 2343
Location: Far, Far Away

PostPosted: Fri May 30, 2014 12:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The ceramic fuse by the AC input (plug with white/black wires) would kill ALL power.
Sawilson



Joined: 30 May 2014
Posts: 9
Location: Knoxville

PostPosted: Fri May 30, 2014 12:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

JTS1957 wrote:
The ceramic fuse by the AC input (plug with white/black wires) would kill ALL power.


Ok thanks. I'll try replacing it first before I go any further and see what happens.
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JTS1957



Joined: 21 Jan 2009
Posts: 2343
Location: Far, Far Away

PostPosted: Fri May 30, 2014 1:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Testing it would also work.
Sawilson



Joined: 30 May 2014
Posts: 9
Location: Knoxville

PostPosted: Fri May 30, 2014 2:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, changing fuse did nothing. Still no lights of any kind. If I could tell which capacitors were bad I'd try changing them but they all look good. I may just have to replace the whole power board.
JTS1957



Joined: 21 Jan 2009
Posts: 2343
Location: Far, Far Away

PostPosted: Fri May 30, 2014 2:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

How about checking diodes?

Standby voltage?
Sawilson



Joined: 30 May 2014
Posts: 9
Location: Knoxville

PostPosted: Fri May 30, 2014 4:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

JTS1957 wrote:
How about checking diodes?

Standby voltage?


I don't have a meter to check them. What would be a good cheap meter to get? And do the diodes have to be out of circuit or can I check them on the board? Thanks for your help, I really appreciate it.
JTS1957



Joined: 21 Jan 2009
Posts: 2343
Location: Far, Far Away

PostPosted: Fri May 30, 2014 6:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Many box stores, hardware, home improvement along with electronic stores, Fry's, Radio Shack, Sears, etc.

Make sure it has a 'diode test' function. After that the choices/prices are endless. Capacitor testing (usually value ONLY - ESR is other main test for caps).

Shorted Diodes will read the same in or out of circuit. When in doubt, pull it (or at least one lead of diode) out.

Use a known (labeled) ground. Note that board has Hot & Cold areas on it. Biggest-a$$ capacitor negative terminal is USUALLY Hot ground, Cold grounds should be labeled (GND). Heat Sinks are NOT usually used as grounds these days.

Desoldering braid with flux, lead (or lead-free) rosin core solder and low wattage 25 to 35 watt iron may also be required.
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