Riddled TV Repair Forum

Axel87 · Joined: 23 Oct 2011 Posts: 6 Location: North Dakota

Model:60pp9202/17f
Chasis: DPT305f

Ive been working on this tv on and off now for a little while.
Originally given to me and the unit would not turn on. When one tried you could see a arc in the blue tubes electron gun and then nothing.
I recently tried to replace the blue tube, and after I did, tried powering up and poof!
2 resistors on the convergence output board have burnt up.
They are resistors 3149 and 3150.
I would like to place an image from the service manual but I dont have enough posts yet apparently? PM me please and Ill send you it
Wondering if there is anyone out there more tech savy than I that can help me figure out what happened here? Where do I go from here?
Thanks!

Google

Axel87 · Joined: 23 Oct 2011 Posts: 6 Location: North Dakota

I believe this should work.

Thanks again for any help

JTS1957 · Joined: 21 Jan 2009 Posts: 1387 Location: Far, Far Away

Was it "Magic Smoke?"

Replace both convergence ICs and all bias resistors that smoked or read bad.

Axel87 · Joined: 23 Oct 2011 Posts: 6 Location: North Dakota

haha, yes it was magic smoke.
The magic kind that kills all your hopes and leaves only frustration Wink

lol

I did locate a couple of STK392 ICs on ebay, so ill replace them also.
Could there be something malfunctioning on the card at the end of the blue tube that could also cause this symptom?

JTS1957 · Joined: 21 Jan 2009 Posts: 1387 Location: Far, Far Away

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Magic_smoke

Were the blue CRTs the same type number?
The only thing on the blue tube that has anything to do with convergence is the convergence yoke.

Genuine Sanyo ICs preferred.

Google

Axel87 · Joined: 23 Oct 2011 Posts: 6 Location: North Dakota

The replacement tube is the same as the old tube.
Just to clarify, you dont think anything is wrong on the CRT Socket board ( I believe that is what they call it) ??
I should just be concerned with the convergence board then i.e replacing resistors and IC's correct??

JTS1957 · Joined: 21 Jan 2009 Posts: 1387 Location: Far, Far Away

CRT Board should not be involved.

A convergence IC failed and burnt up two bias resistors (and possible stressed other bias resistors perhaps sending their value out of tolerance).

If one IC is bad, standard practice says to replace both.

Axel87 · Joined: 23 Oct 2011 Posts: 6 Location: North Dakota

Sorry for the delayed response guys, had to wait for parts.

So after replacing 2 burnt out resistors, the 2 convergence IC's and the blue tube. I am back were I started.

It is still causing an arc inside the tube then nothing when switched on.
I am at a stop here, any ideas on were to proceed?
I still have a feeling the issue is in the CRT card, any thoughts?

JTS1957 · Joined: 21 Jan 2009 Posts: 1387 Location: Far, Far Away

An arc in the original blue CRT & an arc in the replacement CRT?

If yes, unplug what you are calling the blue card from the neck of the blue tube and allow it to hang in mid-air. Be sure it's well away from anything conductive. See if set fires up / plays with only green and red.

Axel87 · Joined: 23 Oct 2011 Posts: 6 Location: North Dakota

Ya its doing the same thing that it did with the stock tube. So obviously I jumped the gun on replacing that. O well, lessons learned. The whole idea behind this repair anyways. Dont know much about these units.

I tried to remove the blue crt card and turn the unit on to see if just the blue/red would operate.

I heard the clicking/popping/snapping sound I heard before( sorry its a odd sound, similar to a shorting relay??), but obviously with no arcing in the tube.

After trying it a second time, this time with the HV line pulled out of the splitter, I didnt get a pop/clicking sound but I did get and arcing in the electron gun similar to what happens in the blue tube. Also burnt up the 3059 and 3060 resistors.
Let the smoke out a second time Sad

. I believe this unit is going to make me go bald..er..hahah

Any ideas?