Riddled TV Repair Forum

karkrazy · Joined: 15 Jul 2008 Posts: 3 Location: Bakersfield, CA

I have had my RCA projection TV (model # D52W15) for a little over 3 years. I read this TV is the same as model D52W20 without the screen protector. About a month ago the TV made a popping noise and went out. The TV attempts to come on and then shuts off due to what we assume is the circuit protection. With the help of a friend we found a connection loose on what we are assuming is the SSB board. The connection was re-soldered and the TV worked for about a month. A couple of days ago the TV did the same as before. We pulled the board back out and looked at the solder points. We didnÃ¢â‚¬â„¢t notice anything wrong with the solder, but did notice two capacitors were popped. We replaced both of them, but the problem did not go away. We reseated the ribbon cables and blew out any dust with compressed air. We also checked the tubes for any cracks or leaks and found nothing. We tried holding down the power button to get the error code(s). One post talks about receiving a 19 error code (one flash and then nine flashes in a row) we could not tell if our error was a 2 or 11 (http://www.fixya.com/support/t104008-rca_hd_model_d52w15). We unplugged the control panel as stated in a previous post and it did not change anything (http://www.techlore.com/forum/thread/18490/RCA-52-quot--projection-tv-model-D52W20/?highlight=d52w20). Does anyone know where to find an explanation of the troubleshooting codes? Any suggestions on where to go from here would be greatly appreciated? I apologize for the length of this post, but I wanted to supply as many details as possible.

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Jesse Mack · Joined: 22 May 2008 Posts: 600 Location: The Last Frontier

This model uses two different chassis, need to know the lettered extensions of the model number to ID chassis
Jesse

karkrazy · Joined: 15 Jul 2008 Posts: 3 Location: Bakersfield, CA

Jesse.
The complete model number is D52W15B. The chassis number is ITC222. Please let me know if you need anything else.
Thanks

Jesse Mack · Joined: 22 May 2008 Posts: 600 Location: The Last Frontier

As far as I can tell, there is no error code of "2" the error codes start at "11" This error is "Data Line of I2C Bus_1 Held low" I believe you would need the Chipper Check Hardware to further Identify this type of error.
Please define: "two capacitors were popped" can you give me the schematic location (printed on the board) of these parts.
Do you mean that these capacitors are electrolytic type with the tops pushed up or expanded?
There are a host of different possibilities on this chassis. You need to check the Horizontal output to see if it is shorted. Does the power supply squeel when you turn on the set. (before shutdown) The HV Splitter has a habit of failing causing your symptom.

Jesse

karkrazy · Joined: 15 Jul 2008 Posts: 3 Location: Bakersfield, CA

We replaced CP114 (220uf 35v 105c) and CP120 (320uf 35v 105c). Both of them are electrolytic type and were pushed up. They both looked like a dome. We do hear a squeal but can't tell where it is coming from. It sounds like it is traveling through the system.

Thanks in advance.
Tom

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Jesse Mack · Joined: 22 May 2008 Posts: 600 Location: The Last Frontier

These two capacitors seem to be unrelated to your problem. one is for the 6 volt source and the other os for the 20 volt source.

I would most likely remove the HV lead from the HV tripler and attach a HV Probe. I doubt if you have one of these. If you do this, it is the large red lead coming out of the flyback transformer and goes up front to a tan colored block that has a total of 4 large red wires coming out of it. to removed the wire, twist and pull in a counterclockwise direction. It can be quite stubborn.

CAUTION CAUTION CAUTION
Make sure the set is off when you do this. insulate and prop the wire away from all metal, do not touch, to not touch with any test instrument. There is a potential of 30~35 thousand volts on this lead when the set is turned on.

After you have done this. plug in and turn on with the remote if the set comes up just no pix the tripler is bad.

To be honest, I have never done this without a probe and have never left on long enough to see if the sound comes up, but, if the unit powers up and stays on longer than it did before the tripler was disconnected it is most likely bad.

Jesse

kuhurdler · Joined: 28 Dec 2006 Posts: 2582 Location: Overland Park, KS

to isolate the HV wire, I have used a glass mason jar, or a baby food jar.

NO METAL