Riddled TV Repair Forum

tray2100 · Joined: 10 Jan 2010 Posts: 14 Location: Toronto

Hey,

I can't find CR14202 ... I see a lot of 600s around Q14601 and I found CR14201 nearby but I can't seem to locate CR14202. I noticed the mainboard has a pseudo coordinate map on it. Would you have to know the location of the component based on that system?

Google

Jesse Mack · Joined: 22 May 2008 Posts: 600 Location: The Last Frontier

My bad,
CR14201 is the bridge rectifier. location II/30 on large heat sink.

Jesse

tray2100 · Joined: 10 Jan 2010 Posts: 14 Location: Toronto

No Problem!! Very Happy

It'll be the first thing I do when I get home tonight from work.

I appreciate your help!

tray2100 · Joined: 10 Jan 2010 Posts: 14 Location: Toronto

Hey so i've located the components but I'm not sure on how to test the rectifier. I've read some very conflicting methods online about how to do this and the other issue is I only see two markings on the component. A "1" on on end of the rectifier and a "2" on the other end.

Here's another newbie question. Do I have to fully remove the components from the circuit in order to test them? is there anyway for me to test them in circuit? Could I tie some common node to ground to avoid having to remove the transistor or rectifier from the circuit?

JTS1957 · Joined: 21 Jan 2009 Posts: 1331 Location: Far, Far Away

Removing (isolating) one (or more) leads to test a component "out of circuit" is part of the job description you've taken on. Confused

Unless you have the schematic in front of you, and have a pretty good understanding of series components, parallel components, and combinations of both, and how these other components will effect your "in-circuit" readings...

When in doubt ... take it out (of circuit to test). Cool

Google

tray2100 · Joined: 10 Jan 2010 Posts: 14 Location: Toronto

Okay so I know i've been a bit MIA from this job but i'm back on the case!

So I removed Q14601 and the bridge rectifier and found that they both test fine. I tested Q14101 and the B-E and B-C junctions conduct both ways. Will any comparable component do or should I go for an exact replacement?

Q14100 is for the run power supply correct? So would this transistor failing possibly explain why originally the TV click as it tried to turn on? Since I blew the AC fuse while probing voltages around Q14100, are there other components you suggest I check that might cause the AC fuse to continue to blow after I replace this transistor?

Hypothetical situation: I replace the transistor and the AC fuse is fine but the TV still won't turn on, what other components would you suggest I check?

tray2100 · Joined: 10 Jan 2010 Posts: 14 Location: Toronto

Okay so I called around today on my lunch and found that a suitable replacement for Q14100 would be NTE2311 and for Q14601 NTE2379. Although it tested fine, I figure I might as well switch it out since it seems to be another common point of failure.

I'm still at work now and hopefully I'll have these parts installed by 7pm EST. In the event that the fuse still blows after I replace these parts, what should be my next course of action?

BTW, I really want to thank you guys for your help. I appreciate your patience and willingness to assist!

Jesse Mack · Joined: 22 May 2008 Posts: 600 Location: The Last Frontier

Bad idea,

Substituting when originals are so readily available is ALWAYS a bad idea.

Jesse

tray2100 · Joined: 10 Jan 2010 Posts: 14 Location: Toronto

I've searched around the city but everyone keeps directing me to those two substitutes...

Jesse Mack · Joined: 22 May 2008 Posts: 600 Location: The Last Frontier

That is becuase you are expecting to find them locally.

Go here: http://www.mcmelectronics.com/

It is only 2~3 days away time wise to order originals.

Jesse