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Samsung HLN617W - How do I test the Ballast   Goto page 1, 2, 3  Next  
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captainmorgan



Joined: 04 Dec 2009
Posts: 10
Location: Illinois

PostPosted: Fri Dec 04, 2009 9:39 pm    Post subject: Samsung HLN617W - How do I test the Ballast Reply with quote

My set has a new bulb and color wheel, but the bulb doesn't light. I suspect the ballast but I don't want to buy one without testing it.

Is there a simple voltage test I can do to see if the ballast is working or not?

Thanks!
captainmorgan
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Jesse Mack



Joined: 22 May 2008
Posts: 600
Location: The Last Frontier

PostPosted: Mon Dec 07, 2009 12:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Check to make sure you did not insert the flexible color wheel connector in backwards (which is easy to do). If the color wheel does rotate, the lamp will not even attempt to light.

Here is the information requested:
When the unit is powered on the correct voltage at pin 1 should be 5v pin 2 is gnd pin 3 should be 2.1v with no power applied 4.6 when unit is turned on pin 4 is gnd pin5 should be 5v at turn on then drop to 0v when the lamp is lit.

The two heavy wires going to the Ballast should have 320~380VDC between them (measure across the leads.)

Hope this helps.

Jesse
captainmorgan



Joined: 04 Dec 2009
Posts: 10
Location: Illinois

PostPosted: Mon Dec 07, 2009 9:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you Jesse! This is what I was looking for.

The mylar ribbon cable from the color wheel appears to be connected correctly...ribbon cable conductors face out toward back of TV. The color wheel does spin.

The boot process seems to go like this:

1. Power is applied
2. Fans turn on and music note plays from speaker
3. Color wheel spins up and stops 4 times
4. Power supply relay clicks and fans stop
5. Power supply relay clicks again and fans come on
6. Power supply relay clicks and fans stop
7. Power supply relay clicks again and fans come on
8. Music note plays from speaker and 3 lights (Timer, Lamp Temp) start blinking
9. Pressing power button again will sound music note and make Timer and Temp lights stay on solid with Lamp light flashing.

The ballast voltages are correct except for pin 3. Pin 3 switches between .56vdc and .80vdc when power supply turns on/off.

I have high voltage at 380v. Pin 1, 2, and 4 are as you described above. Pin 5 is at 4.7v and never goes to 0v (cuz the lamp never lights).

So, the big question is: is pin 3 an input to the ballast or output from the ballast? (I'm hoping you're going to say output).

Again, thank you for your help!
captainmorgan
Jesse Mack



Joined: 22 May 2008
Posts: 600
Location: The Last Frontier

PostPosted: Tue Dec 08, 2009 12:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good question.

This unit has had several changes in the lamp/ballast assy's and there is even a retrofit for units using the OSRAM bulbs that includes a new ballast.

I would suggest that since there is supposed to be 2.1VDC when the set is turned off that you unplug the connector and see if the DC level returns. If it does the ballast would be holding it down.

Hope this helps.

Jesse
captainmorgan



Joined: 04 Dec 2009
Posts: 10
Location: Illinois

PostPosted: Sun Dec 13, 2009 2:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, I decided to buy a ballast and give it a try. On the first power-up with the new ballast, the lamp lit for ~15 seconds, then went out. This is exactly what I saw immediately after replacing the lamp and color wheel last week leading me to believe the ballast was bad. Now I don't know if the brief lamp illumination was due to the new ballast or if it was due to the television being unplugged for several days.

What could cause the lamp to light briefly, then go out, and to fail to relight again? Is it possible that I have a defective lamp that has now damaged two ballasts or is this likely caused by a defective component on the DMD board?
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Jesse Mack



Joined: 22 May 2008
Posts: 600
Location: The Last Frontier

PostPosted: Tue Dec 15, 2009 11:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
What could cause the lamp to light briefly, then go out, and to fail to relight again?


Bad boy, Rolling Eyes you neglected to insert the above information before.

Check the thermal fuse. It is the round button that has ear connectors directly above the lamp box. It should read close to 0 ohms. If it does not install a temporary jumper and see if the set lights.

Jesse
captainmorgan



Joined: 04 Dec 2009
Posts: 10
Location: Illinois

PostPosted: Tue Dec 15, 2009 8:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you for the follow-up.

I assume you're talking about the bi-metal switch above the lamp... It is closed, with 0 ohms resistance. I tried jumping across it anyway but still no light. The set had been unplugged for the past three days and I did not get the lamp to light for even a second today with the thermal switch jumpered.

The only time the lamp lit was once when I had finished putting the new bulb and color wheel in, then once again when I put the new ballast in. Every subsequent power-up with each ballast resulted in no lamp illumination.

The symptoms really seem to look like the original and the new ballast were damaged after being powered up with the new lamp & color wheel...if that's even possible...The connectors on the bulb are clean, they make a good connection to the ballast output, and they are not shorted against the lamp housing. Also, the lamp is the exact replacement as indicated on the tv, and as was previously installed.

Additional info (which may or may not be relevant): I purchased a set of schematics for the TV but the DMD pictures with expected voltage markings is slightly different than the board in the set; the picture has one fewer connector on the right side than the board. I did notice that +/-26v test points on the DMD board are at 0v. The other voltages were correct. I did not check the waveform indicated.

Do you have any other suggestions that I could try or things to check? Do you have a set of schematics for a HLN617WX/XAA built in 12/03? What about the +/- 26v on the DMD board? Should they be present while the TV is booting?

I sure would like to get this thing working again...

I REALLY APPRECIATE YOUR ASSISTANCE!!
Jesse Mack



Joined: 22 May 2008
Posts: 600
Location: The Last Frontier

PostPosted: Wed Dec 16, 2009 10:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I became distracted from my question that was never answered. It was:

Quote:
I would suggest that since there is supposed to be 2.1VDC when the set is turned off that you unplug the connector and see if the DC level returns. If it does the ballast would be holding it down.


could you answer it now?

Jesse
captainmorgan



Joined: 04 Dec 2009
Posts: 10
Location: Illinois

PostPosted: Wed Dec 16, 2009 7:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sorry, the voltages are the same at pin 3 whether or not it is plugged into the ballast. .8v when tv is off and .55v when tv is turned on.

Thanks,
captainmorgan
Jesse Mack



Joined: 22 May 2008
Posts: 600
Location: The Last Frontier

PostPosted: Thu Dec 17, 2009 12:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is a VERY important voltage. It is the 5 volt supply for the ballast when the set is on. Standby = 2.1 VDC and Run is 4.6VDC.

Go to the power supply and look for expanded caps, specifically C821 and C824 or check the voltage at the supply board to make sure it is not a wiring problem (bad connections).

You must have 4.6 volts when set is turned on or set will not function.

Hope this helps

Jesse
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