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Sony KDL-40V4100 - picture has reddish and dark faces   Goto page 1, 2  Next  
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jmr106



Joined: 15 Jul 2017
Posts: 7

PostPosted: Sat Jul 15, 2017 11:06 pm    Post subject: Sony KDL-40V4100 - picture has reddish and dark faces Reply with quote

I have an old Sony Bravia KDL-40V4100 40-Inch flat screen. I have had it for a while. As of the past several days, sometimes certain faces on it appear extremely dark and/or reddish looking. People's faces are insanely red and sometimes very shadowy. I'm also seeing what I would call "rabbit shapes" (due to certain ones that look like a rabbit's shape, complete with ears) and all sorts of weird shapes on the sides (which are visible in the photo).

http://oi68.tinypic.com/64drfn.jpg

Is it about to go out? It seems to be worse at some times than others. Certain channels/colors/objects seem to do better than others. I have checked the basic stuff like the antenna connection, which were all fine. It is connected to a digital receiver (don't have cable/tv provider, just basic free digital channels). We mostly watch DVD movies on it.

Is there something in particular on it that is specifically failing that I could replace? I'm pretty handy with stuff and tend to fix my own stuff when it goes out. I'm just trying to figure out what exactly it is that is going out. I know that there are a variety of boards. I can easily find the board or whatever part is needed, if I knew what the problem is. What generally causes such a thing? Some kind of bad graphics board? I know that this tv is about 9 years old, but otherwise it worked great. I'm the type of person to try to fix something before buying a new one, especially if it was something like a cheap graphics board for $20-$30 online that I could switch out instead of paying a few hundred for a new one. Pretty sure that this probably has at least one capacitor in it somewhere, so I'll have to be wary of it. Any advice on how to discharge them if it does have one?

EDIT: After doing a bit of research, I have come down to it is either in some kind of self-test mode (doubtful) or a possibly T'Con board has gone out. There are no speakers/magnets near the screen. The only cable connected to it via the digital receiver is fine.

Is it safe to assume that this is the T'Con board?
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JTS1957



Joined: 21 Jan 2009
Posts: 2323
Location: Far, Far Away

PostPosted: Sun Jul 16, 2017 2:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Replace U21 on t-con board (AS15-F) or replace t-con board.
jmr106



Joined: 15 Jul 2017
Posts: 7

PostPosted: Sun Jul 16, 2017 1:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

JTS1957 wrote:
Replace U21 on t-con board (AS15-F) or replace t-con board.


I did some research last night after I posted the question and apparently about 90% of the time, it is the T-Con board causing this. It does it when I bring the menu up, too.

I took the TV apart with intent to get the part number on the T-Con board so that I can get the right part. Can anyone verify that this is in fact the T-Con board that I have circled at the top? It sits right below the power/control buttons at the top center of the TV. Obviously, that has to be the main board directly in the center. I'm not sure what the one off to the far right or far left is. Can someone verify that this is the T-Con that I have circled?

The image uploaded was horizontal, but for some reason, it wants to turn it vertical.

http://oi66.tinypic.com/zna3bl.jpg


This kind of worries me a little bit:

http://oi68.tinypic.com/28wfrdv.jpg

Got a 450V capacitor on the main board. It appears that the main board plugs into the board on the right side, which plugs into the T-Con board(?) at the top if that's really the T-Con board.

I'm pretty careful and very much a DIY kind of person, but I'm trying to do everything that I can to not get shocked. Do I need to discharge that capacitor before touching/unplugging the T-Con board? I don't have a discharge tool of any type. Plus, the main board is screwed down on all sides and there's nowhere to actually touch the connection to discharge it without taking the board off to get to the underside circuits.
JTS1957



Joined: 21 Jan 2009
Posts: 2323
Location: Far, Far Away

PostPosted: Sun Jul 16, 2017 1:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

HERE are all the boards used by that base model. Note more than one possibility for T-con, but one should match yours.

T-con board is under shield in your picture.
Power Supply is directly in the center. Main is on the right.

As long as TV has been unplugged for a few hours and since you won't be removing Power Supply, don't worry about discharging cap.
jmr106



Joined: 15 Jul 2017
Posts: 7

PostPosted: Sun Jul 16, 2017 1:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The T-Con board seems "stuck" to the shield on top of it. On the underside, there are two ribbon wires connected to the board to the point where I can't even lift the board up halfway away from the TV. The bottom side of it lifts up and the other side is connected via the ribbon wires, so it swings up like a door on hinges because of the wires. The board feels loose from the shield, but won't actually come away from it. Do they tape these to the shield or something?
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JTS1957



Joined: 21 Jan 2009
Posts: 2323
Location: Far, Far Away

PostPosted: Sun Jul 16, 2017 3:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Your t-con IS one of the two pictured in my prior link?
BOTH show one ribbon (to LVDS to Main board) on one edge and two ribbon cables (that connect at/to the TFT panel via FRAGILE bonded joints). ALL three ribbons must be freed from their locking connectors at the t-con.
If you repeatedly click on it's picture, the picture enlarges. In Both cases the ribbon that goes to Main unlocks one way and the two ribbons that go to TFT unlock in a different way. The TFT panel ones should only require a fingernail to release and then swing them up. The LVDS one requires prying on left and right sides to carefully walk it loose. All three ribbons should NOT require any force to insert or remove from their connectors once locks are released.

The "stuck" may be a heat transfer pad.
jmr106



Joined: 15 Jul 2017
Posts: 7

PostPosted: Sun Jul 16, 2017 4:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Finally got it out. They had a couple of pads on it that must be heat pads or spacer pads to keep it from touching the metal on the case.

http://oi68.tinypic.com/32zhz5g.jpg

T400HW01 V5. 40T02-C06

I didn't disconnect any of the ribbon cables yet. I was able to just flip it upwards to see the bottom and then gently push the board off from the shield.

It is in the link, but they're out of stock on it. I have searched around for others, but it seems that even the used ones are going for $50 to $70 on average. New ones are pushing close to $100. These must be pretty rare parts.
JTS1957



Joined: 21 Jan 2009
Posts: 2323
Location: Far, Far Away

PostPosted: Sun Jul 16, 2017 5:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If my link, was intended more for information and high res pictures.

In your pix, LVDS cable: "pinch" the ears at 9 & 3 o'clock and pull straight out, otherwise is same as my previous. Note the blue reinforcing plastic as to how much is showing and straightness.
jmr106



Joined: 15 Jul 2017
Posts: 7

PostPosted: Thu Jul 20, 2017 8:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Got it fixed on the first try without any issues. I saw that the ribbon cable basically slides under and all the way to the back until it stops before the piece clips down on top of it. Got the part in about 4 days for $70. Picture is now clear as if it were new. Who would have thought that this little card would cause so much havoc when it goes bad?
kuhurdler



Joined: 28 Dec 2006
Posts: 2855
Location: Overland Park, KS

PostPosted: Fri Jul 21, 2017 12:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for posting back. Congrats on your repair.
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