Riddled TV Repair Forum

JTS1957 · Joined: 21 Jan 2009 Posts: 1331 Location: Far, Far Away

On the left side of chassis (parallels tuner) there should be a "claw" that releases chassis. Complete removal of board is NOT necessary to remove and replace these caps.

From Service Manual:
WARNING: BEFORE REMOVING THE ANODE CAP
High voltage remains in the CRT even after the power is disconnected. To avoid electric shock, discharge CRT before attempting to remove the anode cap. Short between anode and CRT coated earth ground strap.

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Patsfan34 · Joined: 31 Jan 2009 Posts: 23

Ok. So as long as I don't try to remove the ANODE CAP. I should be fine replacing the capacitors with discharging? TV has been unplugged for 2 weeks. There may or may not be any charge. What would you do? Last question on this subject. lol

JTS1957 · Joined: 21 Jan 2009 Posts: 1331 Location: Far, Far Away

Leave the anode connected. There should be enough room to maneuver chassis to work on.

Patsfan34 · Joined: 31 Jan 2009 Posts: 23

I love how you avoid answering me straight out. lol Do I need to discharge the CRT before I work on these particulars capacitors or not? lol

kuhurdler · Joined: 28 Dec 2006 Posts: 2571 Location: Overland Park, KS

just do it. It's super simple and won't kill you.

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Patsfan34 · Joined: 31 Jan 2009 Posts: 23

When you say just do it. Do you mean just replace the capacitors or do you mean just discharge the CRT first? lol I assume you mean to just replace the capacitors already. lol

kuhurdler · Joined: 28 Dec 2006 Posts: 2571 Location: Overland Park, KS

just discharge the CRT. It literally takes less than 5 seconds.

JTS1957 · Joined: 21 Jan 2009 Posts: 1331 Location: Far, Far Away

With the proper equipment, it will take approximately 1 minute per capacitor.
Total time: 2min. 30sec.
I'm allowing a 25 sec. coffee break between. Wink

Patsfan34 · Joined: 31 Jan 2009 Posts: 23

kuhurdler · Joined: 28 Dec 2006 Posts: 2571 Location: Overland Park, KS

Well, this should be fun. I'll do my best to hold your hand by explaining why we're doing what we're doing. Hopefully that will be enough to arm you to improvise with whatever you've got.

The goal is to create a conductor from the anode of the CRT to the Aquadag. I know that sounds complicated, but that basically means from the charged area underneath that rubber grommet (anode) to the grounded metal springs on the outside (Aquadag).

In the how-to I wrote, I recommend the screwdriver because it has a fat insulated handle. In reality, you can use anything that is metal to create that conductor path between the Aquadag/anode. But along with creating a conductive path, you want to make absolute sure you don't touch that conductor while the CRT is being discharged. So make sure you INSULATE your hands and any other body part from anything conductive.

I've seen pros discharge CRTs by using two long handled screwdrivers. They criss-cross them and touch the Aquadag and anode while touching the metal of the two screwdrivers together. So two screwdrivers alone could create this conductor path. I would not recommend this method for a first timer.

I assume you have some kind of wires somewhere:
- Strip both ends of a wire
- wrap one bare wire end around the springs on the bell of the CRT
- wrap the other bare end around the metal of a screwdriver
- with one hand in your pocket, and the other hand touching ONLY the handle of the screwdriver...
- push the tip of the screwdriver underneath the metal grommet (anode)
- you should hear a ZAP and the CRT will discharge
- repeat as needed until the CRT no longer zaps.

Please post back with whatever portion was not clear enough.