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8. Remove the two ground connectors.
You'll have to release the release-tabs on these
connectors. I use a very narrow screwdriver
to release them. Don't try to yank them off,
or they'll just get bent up.
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9. Remove the CRT assembly by removing only the four
screws identified in the following picture.
(Two screws are not actually shown in this photo. But they are on the opposite side, same location)
Now, you can finally pull the CRT out of the TV. Remove it slowly and gently, taking care that the dangling wires aren't hung up on anything as you pull it out.
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10. Do not loosen this bolt,
or bend/break these pins.
If you break those pins off, you'll be
buying a new CRT.
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11. Do not ever loosen this wingnut.
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12. Move the CRT to an area away from any
circuit boards. The coolant is conductive so it will short out circuits and it can also eat
up circuit traces right off the PCB.
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13.
Lay the CRT down with the filler plug facing up.
Unscrew the filler plug 1/4 TURN ONLY and remove it.
Use a socket wrench to loosen it.
On the older units the expansion chamber and fill plug are one and the same.
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14.
The filler plug is keyed so it can only be removed or installed one way.
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15.
Make certain not to lose the O-ring
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16. Using a vacuum pump or similar suction device,
remove the fluid from the picture tube and into
a container. Don't use a container you plan to eat food off of later.
Note: the fluid has a high viscosity and moves slowly. I have included
a picture of my setup which is basically an automotive brake bleeding kit.
It works well, but is certainly not the only way.
I have heard of others using turkey basters. (If you do this,
don't ever re-use it for food again.)
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17. After you have removed all of the fluid, remove the (four)
TOREX screws holding the upper lens to the assy. I use a regular 5/32 socket.
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